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Chapter 29 continued

I had been under the impression that a second trip to the city of Richmond made by an automobile party from our house occurred in the summer of 1929, but after consulting other members of the family I have changed my mind relative to the year of its occurrence and believe now that it was during the month of July, 1928. The record of it should have been made along with other happenings of the latter year. On that trip were sister Laura White, who had just come over from Baltimore, Maryland, Nelle, Bernice, Irene and Carroll and their small son John Carroll, Jr., III. Mr. and Mrs. Joseph A. Donohoe also started with them on the trip, but when only a part of the way to Richmond, Mr. Donohoe’s car became partially disabled and he and wife decided it better not to continue the trip and they about faced and reached home all right. On this trip they went the same route we did on the trip heretofore described in the previous summer, passing through both going and returning, Stafford Courthouse, Fredericksburg and a number of smaller towns and villages. They saw about the same objects of interest in the Old Dominion capital and at Fredericksburg and other towns enroute that we did, and barring the extreme heat of the day said they had an enjoyable sightseeing time and somewhat wearied returned home late in the afternoon.

In the early part of the summer of 1929, probably about the middle of July, an automobile party including Carroll and Irene and their little son John and daughter Bethel, Nelle, Bernice and their aunt Laura White went on a trip through northern Virginia. They left hone about 11 o’clock A. M. and went through Alexandria, Fredericksburg, Orange (near which is Montpelier, the home during the last years of his life of former President James Madison) and Mechanicsville to Charlottesville, site of the State University of Virginia and after stopping there a short time and viewing objects of interest in the old city, they continued their journey up quite an elevation along a winding mountainous road to Monticello, the home, for a number of years before he died, of ex-President Jefferson, who was not only a great statesman, but an architect and practical mechanic, and he planned his mansion and it was built under his supervision. It is said that he did much of the work himself. Monticello is on a higher elevation than any of the country around it and from the Mansion there is an excellent view of Charlottesville, which is about two miles distant. The patches of broken ground around Charlottesville, viewed from the top of Monticello, make colorful splotches of red, the soil being clay. The view is wonderful from that vantage and Jefferson no doubt took this into consideration in selecting the site for his home. On this trip to Monticello after viewing the exterior of the spacious mansion, which is still in a good state of preservation, and the beautiful well-shaded grounds surrounding it, they entered the building and saw such of the 35 rooms as were open for public inspection There was a guide who pointed out many interesting objects of interest. In Jefferson's study, he called attention to large round openings in the wall over which oil paintings hung. Behind these in rooms above, Jefferson was said to have had armed servants on guard to protect him in case of deceit, treachery, or attack upon Jefferson by anyone in conference with him or otherwise. In the bedrooms of the first floor the beds are in alcoves, Jefferson's bed is on display now, a bed of low headboard and footboard and of dark colored wood. The white cover and pillow are said to have been used by him. Fireplaces abound with andirons and fine marble mantels and many fine paintings and objects of art. It is said that at first there were no stairways, that ladders were used, which servants removed after the family ascended for the night.. The troublous times and Jefferson’s personal doings probably accounted for this precaution, and perhaps his own disposition.

There were underground passages by which he could go from one part of his estate and from one building to another in absolute privacy, and it is said he sometimes had his horse shod with shoes set on backwards to baffle enemies.. The English threatened his life and during the war of 1776, it is said that once it was saved by Jack Jouitt an innkeeper who happened to be at the inn some miles away when British soldiers under Cornwallis came by. He learned they meant to capture Jefferson and perhaps send him to England for trial and imprisonment, or perhaps death, also to break up the Virginia Legislature. His ride, little known, but more thrilling than Paul Revere’s over an old unused road through creeks and over a rocky and almost impassable country was successful. He got to Monticello, warned Jefferson, then to Charlottesville, by more direct route, notified the legislature and defeated the British purpose. The deep scars received on his terrible ride, the innkeeper carried to his death and there is a tablet to his memory yet in the old inn at Charlottesville. Jefferson was a musician of note, playing the violin with ease and skill, an inventor, an architect, a scholar and statesman. He had a large library and after the government library was destroyed by fire by the British in 1814, he sold his library to the government.

He died poor, hardly being able to save Monticello. His generosity to his friends and entertaining of them brought him to poverty. His estate went to strangers, but is now owned by a society which is restoring Monticello. Honeymoon Lodge, a small brick ivy covered house nearby, is where Jefferson took his bride, it is said, his house not then being completed. It took 30 years to finish it. The automobile party returned home through Staunton, Harrisburgh, Winchester, Middleburg, Aldie and Fairfax, coming much of the last part of their journey after nightfall and having traveled over a very rough country some of the route, 363 miles. But it was a wonderful sight seeing experience and well enjoyed by them all. They arrived at home long after darkness set in, about 11 P. M.

Early in July 1929, an automobile party made the most extensive journey through parts of Virginia and North Carolina any at them had ever made. The party consisted of Carroll and Irene and their children, John and Bethel, my wife’s sister, Mrs. Laura White, Mary and Nelle. They left home on the morning of July 3rd and when they had reached the vicinity of the Potomac River they were joined by Mr. and Mrs. Joseph A. Donohoe. Crossing the Potomac on the Highway Bridge their route was through Fairfax Courthouse, Warrenton and Sperryville to Luray, near which they stopped and viewed the famous Luray Caverns. The caverns are in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia and there are miles of subterranean splendor, brilliantly lighted by electricity. As stated they are near Luray, Page County and are on Lee Highway and the Norfolk and Western Railway and in a region renowned for its picturesque scenery and celebrated for its historical associations. The caves were discovered in 1873. Their great extent were not then known or even dreamed of and not until parties had penetrated seemingly endless chambers and labyrinthine passages were their boundless riches disclosed and made accessible to visitors. It is now the most famous cave in the world. The party entered the caverns through cave house, a stone structure which is fitted with a restroom, toilets and every convenience for the comfort of visitors. Passing through the cave house they emerge into the first opening of the caverns, called entrance chamber. They said that entering the grand vestibule, their first emotion was one of mute wonder. The mind fails to grasp the grandeur revealed in such majestic manner until it gradually accustoms itself to fantastic shapes, almost perceptible silence and the weird influence of this subterranean realm. Glittering stalagtites blaze in front of fluted columns, draperies in broad folds and a thousand tints, cascades of snow white stone illuminated by electric light, fill the mind with curious sensations of wonder and admiration. The caverns here consist of many rooms connected by natural corridors or passageways. Various apartments and objects have been named in honor of some distinguished person or after something to which they bear a striking resemblance. There is Elfin Ramble, 400 feet long by 125 feet broad. Pluto’s Chasm, a wide rift in the walks, Havey’s Hall, a vast space with statuary and stalactite draperies, Giant’s Hall, Titanias' Veil and the Bridal Chamber. Saracen's Tent and the Cathedral all bear resemblance to objects for which named. There is Hades, suggestive of goblins and uncanny, the Ballroom and Campbell’s Rail, named for the cave’s discoverer, all rich and beautiful in enchanting ornamentation. After viewing with delight and sometimes with awe the varied scenes of the caverns, the party emerged again to terra firma and proceeded on their journey.

Near Luray is Skyland, a popular mountain resort, which is 4000 feet above sea level. The next town on their route was New Market, and here they turned south. But the previous year, another party consisting of Carroll and Irene and their two children, Nelle and Bernice had come the same route as far as New Market. They passed by the caverns but did not stop to view them. At New Market they turned north passing through several small towns they came to Winchester, one of the largest towns in the Shenandoah Valley, there they turned toward Washington, passing through Middleberg and Fairfax, arrived at home some time after dark. This trip was made earlier in the season and the mountain region was covered with laurel and was a continuos scene at gorgeous beauty. They brought home some of the laurel blossoms.

The 1929 party, after they left New Market, went in a southern direction passing through Harrisonburg, a very pretty town, especially the residential section, next through Staunton in a very rough part of the mountains, or rather hills, but has very pretty homes: then through Lexington, a lonely looking place; think the old Lee’s and Jackson’s homes were there, and the next place was the Natural Bridge, which is justly called one of the wonders of the world. It is in Rockbridge County, 14 miles from Lexington and 22 miles from the Peaks of Otter. The dimensions of the bridge are; length 90 feet, width 150 feet at one end and 50 feet at the other; and the thickness 40 feet; height to underline about 200 feet and to the head about 240 feet. Underneath the bridge runs Cedar Creek. Twenty-three feet above the creek are the initials "G. W." faintly outlined on the southeast wall of the bridge. These are thought to have been carved there by Washington himself about the year 1750 when he was a young surveyor. Thomas Jefferson became the first owner of the Natural Bridge, in a grant by King George 3rd of England, July 5, 1774. The original grant, now in Monticello, grants 157 acres in the county of Botetourt "including the natural bridge on Cedar Creek, a branch of James River." Of the Bridge, Jefferson said: “It will draw the attention of the world" The Bridge is now illuminated by powerful lights at night and is said to be a sublime spectacle.

The party passed over the Bridge on the Lee Highway but did not realize they were on the Bridge at the time. After passing over it they alighted and going down below got a good view of it from beneath it. After they left the Natural Bridge, they crossed over the James River and next came to Buchanan, a small town where they stayed all night. Continuing their journey the next morning the next town through which they passed was Roanoke, famous in antebellum days as the home of John Randolph, a statesman of considerable note in those days. They stopped in Roanoke a short time and after viewing the public buildings and other points of interest they departed on their way to Winston Salem, North Carolina, which is a great tobacco market, passing through a number of towns enroute. At Winston Salem they turned east, passed through Greensboro, a considerable city, and Hillsborough, the county seat of Orange County, near which Grandfather Rountree lived during the early part of his life, and where I think he was born and where I know that my mother and her older brothers were born. The next town they came to was Durham, the site of Duke University, and a great tobacco center, where Duke Tobacco Company have an extensive tobacco plant and manufacture the famous Duke's mixture and Bull Durham smoking tobacco. Here the party spent the second night of their automobile trip. Continuing their journey the next morning in a short time they arrived at Raleigh, a fine southern city and the capital of the state of North Carolina. There they saw the State Capitol, a very imposing public edifice and occupied a city block. The magnolia trees were particularly interesting, their leaves were about the color of a holly leaf. They thought that Raleigh was much prettier than Durham.

Leaving Raleigh they continued their journey in a north eastern direction, passing throuch Tarboro, Williamston, and Windsor, and then they passed through the famous Dismal Swamp. Before the Civil War this swamp was a refuge for numerous fleeing Negroes trying to escape from baying bloodhounds hot upon their trail, but since the war it became one of the finest natural game preserves on the Atlantic seaboard. The Swamp lies between Edenton, North Carolina and Norfolk, Virginia. It is about 30 miles long and 20 or 25 miles wide and about half of it is in each state. There is a fine hard surfaced road through the swamp, a road similar to the splendid highways all through the state of North Carolina. One peculiarity of the Dismal Swamp is that it is higher than the surrounding dry land, and is said to be about 10 to 22 feet above tidewater. They passed through Elizabeth City, the last city of any consequence in North Carolina, and then arrived at Portsmouth and from there they went to Norfolk on the Atlantic Ocean and one of the most important ship building cities in the South. From Norfolk, they crossed Hampton Roads on a steam ferry boat to Newport News, where they stayed all night. Leaving Newport News the next morning they went up the James River at Jamestown, which was the scene of stirring events which occurred in 1607 and a few subsequent years in which the colonists under Captain John Smith and the aborigines under Chief Powhatan were participants. From Jamestown they went to Williamsburg, the site of William and Mary College, one of the oldest educational institutions in the southern states. After the ancient college structures and various other sights in the old town, they pursued their journey homeward. Instead at going the main highway via Richmond, they toured through Yorktown and traveled a dirt road about 60 miles to Tappahannock. They said it was a windy day and their trip to the last named town was disagreeable on account of the dust. The next town on their route was Fredericksburg, and from there they came to Washington via Alexandria, and arrived home some time after nightfall. They were gone four days, traversed parts of two states and traveled 1000 miles.

On the 8th day of July, 1925 our daughter Bernice and Aunt Laura White, Carroll, Irene and their children John and Bethel started on an automobile trip in a northeastern direction, the objective point of which was New York City. They went through Baltimore, and Kennett Square to Philadelphia where they saw many objects of historic interest, among which was the famous Independence Hall where the Decaration of Independence was promulgated in 1776 and at this famous building they viewed the old Liberty Bell, which was rung when the American colonies declared their freedom from domination of British tyranny. They were in the Betsy Ross house, whose owner and occupant during the Revolutionary War made the first American flag, the Stars and Stripes. After staying in the city of Brotherly Love an hour or more they made a side trip to Valley Forge, a distance of about 25 miles. Here a part of the Continental army under General Washington was in winter quarters during the darkest period of the Revolutionary War, the winter of 1777-1778. This well-known camp of the great American General is now Valley Forge Park, a state reservation of 1500 acres. There they saw Washington’s headquarters, an old weather beaten brick structure used by the American Commander during that memorable winter. They also saw Washington Memorial Arch, a modern building near which is an old log hut, similar to a number of other huts scattered over the Park and which were the winter quarters of the soldiers in 1777-1778.

Chapter twenty-nine continued...